Journal entry for August 23, 2001

Today's summary: How to sign a print.

In response to a thread on my online artist's community, WetCanvas, I gave my take on how you're supposed to sign a print. I used to make a lot of digital monoprints. So, I figured I would quote the post below in case there's any interested artists out there.

Here's how you sign a print:

On the left: 12/100
(or whatever # out of however many prints)
Center: Title
Right: Signature

Make sure you sign IN PENCIL. As in the example above, if my image is solid color and there's an obvious bottom edge, I sign just below that bottom edge... so that if the print is matted, the writing will show within a 3/4 inch border.

If the image doesn't have a distinct edge, I usually decide something like this: "The page is 16 by 20, so I'll assume it's matted to a 14 by 18 opening" and sign it accordingly.

Some people sign the date next to their name... personally I prefer to write the date as a copyright notice on the lower reverse edge of the print. Like this:
© 2001 Jen Gagne

Yeah, you can have different limited editions (or open editions) at different sizes. Just make sure it's clear to the buyer that by "limited" you mean "After 200 prints (or whatever), this image will never be printed again at this size". Some people print limited edition prints and then open-editions of notecards, for example.

As for how to present them honestly to your buyers, I'd suggest some kind of Certificate of Authenticity that simultaneously explains the media. You could link to an example on your site. In some states, a CofA is actually a legal requirement.

Here's an example CofA I used for my digital monoprints. The text is rather different though, since this is for a one of a kind single print, not a limited edition (or, you could look at it as an edition of one).

In terms of explanation, I suggest just stating that it's an archival digital print. You could say giclee also, but A) a lot of people won't know what that is, and B) a lot of French-speaking people will snicker at you because of what that word really means in French. So, I wouldn't JUST say "giclee".

If you feel it needs more explanation, compare it to an original watercolor in terms of paper, pigment, and longevity. (actually, most modern giclees have better lightfastness than original watercolors). It should be cared for just like a regular watercolor would be.

Number then chronologically as you have them made. The first numbers are usually the most valuable (yes, even with digital prints). That's why I usually start selling at 6, and keep the first 5 for myself (heheheh...)

I think I've lost track of which questions I tried to answer and which I missed. If there's more I can try to help with, just holler.

-=- Jen "My printer is broken right now! WAAAAAH!!!" Gagne

(If you want, you can read the original thread.)